Wednesday 29th December – Monday 10th January

Wednesday 29th December

A two-part trip organised for New Year 2020/21 but, a few weeks beforehand, a call from the lovely self-catering people: “Did you know it’s currently not legal for English people to travel to Scotland?” No, we did not know that!

All, of course, due to Scottish COVID-19 rules. So after talking to the hotel, who were hoping against hope they could entertain us, we sadly postponed to 2021/22 both our Hogmanay at The Airds and our trip to The Stonehouses in Ullapool. Later both establishments, like all hospitality, had to close entirely for Christmas & New Year and, in fact, didn’t open again until 26th April.

So here we are on ‘Take 2’ and, as usual, we’ve packed far too much stuff. It’s very difficult when it might be raining / snowing or not and when you need ‘glad rags’ and ordinary clothes. The result …. far too many suitcases!

We started with dinner at the German Gymnasium at King’s Cross https://www.germangymnasium.com which was looking resplendent in its Christmas decor.

We then joined our Caledonian Sleeper train https://www.sleeper.scot departing Euston 21.15; Arriving Fort William 09.55 the following morning. Getting a seat in the dining car was pretty tricky due to their restricted numbers for COVID, however, our lovely steward kept an eye and sorted out a nice corner table for us – so kind.

A cheese plate to share, a glass of wine and then a whisky as we rolled out of London. It’s a shame they’ve changed the whisky stock they carry, not quite the same as the Balvenie or the Bowmore we’ve enjoyed before.

Then ensued the usual battle with the ladder in the Club Class cabin. Since the introduction of the new rolling stock, the ladder is fixed upright against the beds; it is in the wrong place both for the person on the top and the person underneath. Also, although only a few years old, the ‘ever-so-posh’ Glencraft mattresses they had specially made are not standing the test of time.

My moans aside, we love to travel to Scotland on the sleeper.

Thursday 30th December

Sadly, our normal independent Fort William car hire guy seems to have disappeared during COVID and, although I wasn’t keen on EasyDrive https://www.easydrivescotland.co.uk to start with as they had tried to keep all our money from last year’s postponement(!), they were very efficient. There was a lady at the front of the station handing out car keys to people, brief information and instructions for returning the car. We were loaded and on the way in around 15 minutes.

We tried our normal coffee stop which is part of a hotel alongside Neptune’s Steps, but the café was closed. So we returned to a sign we had seen earlier. What a find just next to Old Inverlochy Castle – The Highland Soap Company, Larder Café https://www.highlandsoaps.com/pages/visitor-centre-and-larder-cafe – such a nice venue with indoor/outdoor space and lovely staff. Our favourite saying of the holiday from the lady who served us:-

“Are ye paying by card or by money?” 

We drove south, past our hotel turning, and on to Oban in search of some lunch. It was pretty wet and we wandered from place to place unable to find what we (I!) really wanted. I can’t even remember now if we actually found anywhere to eat!

How wonderful to be back at The Airds Hotel & Restaurant https://www.airds-hotel.com – the lovely Robert, who manages everything so smoothly, still there to welcome us. Lots of new staff as COVID closed them for such a long time people moved on to other jobs. But the new staff were all very friendly and welcoming. We discovered the hotel had recently been sold to a new owner, I guess there are some things that could be updated (the conservatory) but we do hope the new owner keep things ‘mostly’ the same.

We had originally booked the Master Suite when there was nothing else available. It was enormous with a large bedroom, separate living room, massive bathroom and a balcony, not that it was dry or warm enough to open the balcony door!

Friday 31st December

Today a trip to Inveraray – we had been once before and really must go again when the famous castle is actually open https://www.inveraray-castle.com and it is perhaps a little less damp. Pretty atmospheric photos though.

On New Year’s Eve The Airds put on a lovely dinner (saving the New Year’s Gala meal until tomorrow). The dinner is followed by a jolly ceilidh (music and Scottish dancing – circles and sets) across the road at the village hall. Both guests and staff are invited and are piped both into dinner and later along the road by a very smartly kilted bagpiper.

Saturday 1st January

This morning, breakfast is replaced by ‘brunch’ and then a treasure hunt organised around the village. The colours being extra-ordinary in the sun after a downpour.

This evening’s seven course Aird’s Gala Dinner is served after some champagne, canapés and jolly conversation with our fellow guests in the lounges; black tie and glad rags; a few kilts; Christmas trees and log fires.

Sunday 2nd January

The Hogmanay Break is over for most and our new-found playmates are leaving this morning. We have an extra day so set off for a gentle walk around Glencoe Lochan Trails https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/fortwilliam/glencoelochan.shtml a place we’ve been too before – good when it rains as the many trees give some shelter!

When leaving the trails, turn left out of the car park for a wonderful drive which comes out on the main road through Glencoe. A quick visit to the Visitor Information Centre for refreshments. https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/glencoe/highlights/visitor-centre?lang=

And back to The Airds for a lazy afternoon and one final delicious meal.

Monday 3rd January

My final breakfast was home-made porridge with a ‘wee dram’ on top.

Farewell to The Airds, to Robert and your lovely staff – you have been amazing as always.

Quite a big journey today – about 140 miles from Port Appin to Ullapool. We stopped on the way to do a food shop at the newish M&S in Fort William and then a coffee and cake stop back at the Highland Soap Company Larder Café. Whilst there, we also took a look at Old Inverlochy Castle https://www.inverlochycastle.co.uk on the banks of the River Lochy.

It was a lovely drive to Ullapool but as we got nearer the skies began to look like snow and then …. down it came in a blizzard as we drove over the top of the hills and down into Ullapool.

I don’t really want to tell anyone about our accommodation – The Stonehouses https://thestonehouses.co.uk – in case they should go there and book it up! There are two amazing properties which are reserved way in advance; so one really needs to plan ahead!

Our lovely hosts Gavin and Rachel were there to greet us and whizzed up and down the 55 steps from the car parking area like mountain goats carrying our suitcases and food bags.

After a short briefing on how things work and a genuine promise to answer the phone at any time, they left us to explore. We are in the Curved Stone House and it is awesome.

There are other photos on the website – it’s all as lovely as it looks – and I haven’t started on the view yet!

Tuesday 4th January

Snow!! And our view.

Not to worry, the gritters are out. It’s a thing in Scotland to know where your local gritters are and to have them named. There are some really funny/clever names – our local gritter is called ‘Gangsta Granny Gritter’ and you can see it’s progress on the Traffic Scotland website:-

This morning, Rachel and her team were cleaning the other property – The Treehouse – and she invited me for a sneak tour. It is also a lovely property, smaller but with it’s own private waterfall!

A quiet day as Husband has been feeling poorly for several days – possibly an ear infection; he is very deaf and not feeling at all well. He stayed in while I braved the 55 icy steps and the car on the twisty drive and set off to Tesco to purchase butter, which we had forgotten, and a few other bits, including an ice scraper for the car!

It is a bank holiday in Scotland in lieu of 2nd January, so the doctor’s surgery is not open. I rang 111 to seek advice for Husband and was on hold for over an hour before finally giving up.

In the evening we drove down to the town to take in Ullapool’s Christmas lights.

More about the Ullapool Christmas (Creel) tree below.

We lit the wood burning stove for the first time – what a delight!

Wednesday 5th January

Having told Gavin & Rachel about Husband’s illness, immediately thereafter assuring them it’s not COVID(!), they suggested we ring their doctor’s surgery. They are always very helpful they said. Helpful was an under-statement, they were amazing! If only we had the same level of service at home.

I rang first thing (no good Husband ringing as he can’t hear!). Reception gave him a mid-morning telephone appointment with a senior nurse – Briony. Briony said we could have a face-to-face appointment and she would examine him in 30 minutes time! She thinks it’s an ear infection too and was able to prescribe some drops which we could pick up from Boots now if we hurry before they shut for lunch. What service!

The Ullapool Creel Tree is apparently well known. It is made from around 340 creel pots (used for catching shellfish), is fitted out with lights and sponsored by many, many people. This link is to an item from the BBC re the 2019 display https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-50600465. The daylight photos show more detail – it’s a thing of beauty.

A gentle stroll around the edge of Loch Broom, Ullapool town and a nice coffee in The Cult Café https://www.facebook.com/cult.cafe.ullapool/ – very friendly with luscious cakes.

Medications collected we are off on a road trip as suggested in The Stonehouse information folder. What a beautiful drive!

Overlooking the Summer Isles are some brochs by the same architect who designed The Stonehouses. The Brochs of Coigach https://www.thebrochs.co.uk

Thursday 6th January

My knitting/podcast-listening chair and that view – definitely a best bit!

Road trip to Lochinver – enjoyable ride but disappointing to find when we got there that we had already been – doh! Some years back we had stayed one night at the Inver Lodge Hotel https://www.inverlodge.com – pretty posh and containing more than its fair share of tartan if I remember correctly!

Coffee in Ancala Café and Bunkhouse http://www.ancalacafeandbunkhouse.co.uk – very friendly and we just scraped in before they closed. Random sign on the way to the loos:-

Views of Lochinver village – on Loch Inver.

The most amazing mobile cinema the ‘Screen Machine’ parked right on the lochside – wow!

After leaving Lochinver we stopped at Clachtoll beach – beautiful white sand but, sadly, when you look closely, lots of tiny bits of plastic.

He’s still feeling poorly and still almost completely deaf, so I am despatched in the dark and the rain to fetch some fish and chips!

Friday 7th January

Today Husband is trying the bath for size!

Later, I walked up on to the grass roof (it was allowed) and then down into town for a mooch.

It’s our last afternoon so we really must try out the sauna!

Saturday 8th January

Our last morning; we are packed and ready to go. Gavin and Rachel appear right on time to assist us once more with the luggage and the steps. It is such a lovely property, I hope we can return in perhaps slightly warmer weather so we can sit on the patio and enjoy some of the restaurants which were closed in January.

As we leave, CalMac’s Loch Seaforth, which we have been watching sail in and out of Ullapool during our stay, sets off for Stornaway in the Outer Hebrides.

As we climb out of Ullapool we travel back through a beautiful snowy landscape, passing Gangsta Granny Gritter parked and ready for action!

I have a new app – Peak Finder. Just line it up with the skyline and it tells you the name and height of the peaks. Very clever.

There is no sleeper train in either direction on a Saturday night, so we are staying an extra night at Spean Bridge, near Fort William at Whispering Pine Lodge https://www.blacksheephotels.com/the-whispering-pine-lodge/

Very friendly welcome from the Indian family who own/run the hotel. The restaurant menu contains an interesting mix of British & Indian dishes and a charming Maître d’ from Poland.

What was weird was they obviously didn’t get the message about twelth night as all the Christmas Decorations – and there were a lot of them in every room – were still up.

Our room had a balcony and a lovely view over Loch Lochy and the snowy hills opposite.

Sunday 9th January

A moonlit night and breakfast overlooking the view.

Our sleeper train isn’t until 19.00 so we have the whole day and then some to fill. We did wonder if, another time, it may be worth coming back on a daytime train rather than have a day at a loose end when you are all packed and bascially homeward bound – hmmm.

Anyway, we set off on a drive to The Kyle of Lochalsh; we did, accidently, go over the bridge to Skye, but just for a u-turn! It is a dramatic route and we were lucky with the weather and the quality of the light.

After a light lunch in Hector’s Bothy https://www.hectorskyle.co.uk in The Kyle of Lochalsh, we made the return trip. Fortunately, we had to drive right past the hotel who had previously rung to say we had left half our clothes in the wardrobe!!

Quick stop for a drink at the much-changed Glencoe Mountain centre – ski/snow resort, moutain biking, chair lift rides https://www.glencoemountain.co.uk. One of the changes is the car park is now very expensive! A brand new café and there is still quite a bit of building going on, perhaps a hotel? I must go up on that chairlift one day when Husband isn’t with me!

After dropping the car in Fort William and being able to sit in the Caledonian Sleeper Lounge, we joined our train home. Departing Fort William at 19.00; Arriving Euston at 08.30 (long notified as 45 mins later than the timetabled 07.47 due to planned engineering).

Monday 10th January

In the event we arrived a few minutes early into Euston and caught an earlier train home. This did not leave enough time to buy any groceries at King’s Cross so no milk for a cuppa when we arrived home mid-morning!

What a trip! Haste ye back! 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿