Friday 11th March – Monday 2nd May
Part 3 : Playa Tropicana, Alcossebre to Seville
Monday 4th April
Today we left Playa Tropicana – I hope I can come back one day …….. when it’s sunnier!
What a journey …….. wind and rain all the way!
We are however deeper into Spain, you can tell because there are bulls on hillsides!
Barbara & Chris had recommended an app called ‘Search for Sites’ which carries information on touring (regular) sites, motorhome specific sites (aires), areas where you can wild camp and other bits and bobs. It is very useful. So, using the app, we stopped at a small site at Totana called Camperstop Sierra Espuña https://inglescamperstopsierraespuna.blogspot.com. Randomly, it is only open in the winter
There is an area of the site with a view, we parked there briefly then realised we would be blown away. So we retreated to a sheltered spot against a wall like everyone else! It rained and blew a hoolie all night. Huge puddles joined across the gravel to make a lake. Waders were required to reach the toilet block!
Mileage = 256 miles
Tuesday 5th April
Yup, still blowing a hoolie!
At Lorca we had a choice of routes, we decided on the right fork. After a few miles we saw a snow plough travelling in the opposite direction and then another. We laughed!
Soon after that the road began to climb and climb, the rain turned to hail, then to sleet and finally to …….. snow!! The orange groves on either side were covered by a white layer, well those we could see through the blizzard conditions! For a short time, only one lane of the road was navigable in either direction, two tyre tracks wide. No really, we came away for some winter sun!!
One of the highlights of the A92 turned out to be a stop for coffee. Instead of service stations, local towns offer food and lodging to people via slip roads just off the main road. We randomly stopped at Restaurante Brasería Cafeteria in Cortes y Graena, a province of Granada. We had coffee and a cake and chatted to some other British motorhomers. I picked up a loaf of freshly made bread and added some Iberico ham – there were many hams hanging over the counter. Oh how I wish I’d bought more!! First of all the Iberico ham was delicious, second of all it was extremely reasonably priced. A delightful and impressive lunch was had further down the road.
Using the same app, we found a site at Camping La Sierrecille, Humilladero https://lasierrecilla.com/en/. It is obviously quite the place in the season and they were getting ready painting, cleaning, busy, busy, busy …….. so busy there’s no-one to check you in. I rang the mobile number on the door and was told to just pick a place and pay later – pretty relaxed.
Mileage = 221 miles
Wednesday 6th April
Onwards again towards Seville, in thick fog to begin with …….. well, it makes a change from the rain!
There is really only one campsite in Seville that makes for a sensible stay if you want to tour the city. Camping Vilsom https://campingvillsom.com/index.php. It doesn’t get very good reviews generally and it is comparatively expensive! Anyway, the journey round the outskirts of the city was easy and we arrived at Camping Vilsom without problem.
The ground is a reddish sand, perfectly fine in the summer I’m sure. After the recent deluges however, it was a puddle-strewn mess of red mud and it was impossible not to get it inside the motorhome. The pitches are very small and close together and manoeuvring around the site with the trees and foliage was quite a challenge. However, on the third pitch attempt, we are squeezed in, the sun is out and, from a distance, the pitch looks fine. Let’s not talk about the swimming pool though, which is green, mouldy and grim!
Husband is here for a week, I’m off to a 4 star hotel tomorrow afternoon!
Mileage = 95 miles
Thursday 7th April
Another sunny day, we walked into Dos Hermanas, a suburb of Seville. A bustling, quite pretty centre; coffee outside and a pleasant stroll around.
We returned to the motorhome for a luscious simple lunch together before my departure.
So, my new £14 duffle on two wheels is ready. Packing at home for a long motorhome holiday whilst also packing for a city break in a 4 star hotel, plus glamorous nights out with the Tea Girls has been a challenge. Let’s hope I’ve got everything!
The taxi has arrived and I’m off!! (OK the toiletries didn’t quite fit into the duffle so I’ve got an Intermarché carrier bag too).
TEA GIRLS IN SEVILLE
The Tea Girls together in Seville – it’s the third attempt at this trip, originally planned for 2020, then 2021 but we are finally all here in 2022 – yay!!
A couple of views of the centre of our hotel – Hotel Palacio Villapanés https://coolrooms.com/palaciovillapanes/en/. The hotel is to be highly recommended.
Our rooms are nice but fashionably dark; thank goodness for the light-up wardrobe!
We ate out at a well known restaurant ConTenedor ‘A Slow Food Restaurant’ https://restaurantecontenedor.com – I was a little sceptical thinking either slow service or quirky food, but it was amazing service and brilliant, fresh, local food. Everything written on a blackboard in Spanish and gamely explained by the staff and by Google Translate. Different and delicious!
Friday 8th April
Breakfast in the hotel – although it’s in the basement and perhaps the least attractive public room (still nice), the breakfast choice was large, fresh and excellent quality.
This week in Seville it is Semana Santa – Holy Week. Many of the balconies are hung with red and gold drapes.
We have a private ‘Kickstart’ 90 minute walking tour booked – needless to say the guy was operating on Spanish time so was a bit late! But nevertheless he was an interesting guide and it made a good beginning.
Seville Cathedral:
We visited the cathedral with a pre-booked audio guide self-tour and then meandered across the river to the Triana area for a late lunch on the The Guadalquivir River. Alan Carr was at the next table and left riding a bike!
Dinner tonight is at Perro Viejo Tapas Bar https://www.tuhogarfueradecasa.com/en/perro-viejo/
On the way to and from the restaurant we glimpsed the famous Metropol Parasol, known as Las Setas – (The mushrooms).
Saturday 9th April
This morning we are booked to see the Alcazaar Palace – a jewel in the crown of Seville. Amazing buildings, beautiful gardens – a real treat.
Early evening to a Flamenco Show at The Museo de Baile Flamenco. https://museodelbaileflamenco.com/index.php/en/home/ It’s very dramatic. The music is intense and the sound of the shoes hitting the floor is loud. I’m glad I saw it, but I don’t need to go again!
After the Flamenco Show we ate out at The Petit Comité https://petitcomitesevilla.es/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/en.png. The menu was very difficult to understand; someone with a little English had obviously tried to translate it but the translations were way off and led to much confusion. Eventually, we chose what we thought we would like and all was fine.
Our table was in a small private room with giraffes, it was a squeeze but very jolly. One of us went to the loo and found they could wave to us through an interior window located just above my head!! Very odd.
Sunday 10th April
Today is Easter Sunday and we understand the processions will begin soon.
We are returning to ‘The Mushrooms’ this morning to watch the ‘flying’ video experience (excellent) and explore the roof.
Onwards to the Parque de María Luisa – a large public park with pathways, fountains and monuments. It was pretty and peaceful, until we ran across a flamenco demonstration!
At this point we began to see people gathering. All very smartly dressed, including the teenagers! No alcohol or rowdiness, just a happy family atmosphere of celebration.
And then we bumped into our first procession, which was a bit of a shock. I understand that that dreadful movement in the USA got their outfit ideas from history, nevertheless it was quite weird to see children – the penitents – parading in their capriotes (pointed hats).
We found we could not cross the procession to further discover the park and we could see the procession trailing back way into the distance, so we retreated to the hotel via the ring road to avoid any more processions! We should’ve learnt our lesson at that point, but who knew?!
We had evening drinks in the hotel and began to plan our departure to our restaurant across the old city at a tapas bar called, Seis (part of the Perro Viejo group) https://www.tuhogarfueradecasa.com/en/seis/. It’s a 15 minute walk. Reception say it may take us a bit longer due to the processions …….. we rang the restaurant, moved our booking back to 9.15pm and said we were on our way and would get there as soon as possible. We arrived over 1.5 hours late just before 11.00pm!!
I have never seen so many people; to us it seemed confusing as various processions roamed the tiny streets, apparently there is a plan, we just didn’t understand the enormity and the length and breadth of the plan.
The main problem was crossing the processions; there were marshalled points where one could cross but where / when? Also the processions twist and curve so you might get across it but then come up against it (or another one!) in the next road.
The photos can’t describe the enormity of the event. They show some Pasos passing through the narrow streets, supported underneath by several hidden men – they weigh around a ton.
Sometimes we were trapped in a street or between the procession and the spectators. Sometimes right next to the adult penitents, some in white, some in black; with just their eyes showing it was an odd, uncomfortable situation.
Fortunately the restaurant were still happy to serve us! After dinner it seemed much quieter outside so we began the 15 minute walk back. Ho ho, ho, after only a few minutes we were entangled in the processions once more – apparently they go on until around 3.00am. Perhaps what we should’ve done is walked out to the ring road and around. I’m not sure we would’ve avoided it all but …….. Ooops!
On reaching the hotel the big doors were shut and we had to ring to get in. The concierge was so nice and we learnt more from him about the processions (definitely not parades!) than we had grasped thus far. His brotherhood are processing tomorrow – all day!! It is a great honour and it was humbling to hear how proud he was to be taking part.
Monday 11th April
We decided to have breakfast out on our last morning and found a little café near the cathedral where we had two coffees/teas each, various orange juices and croissants, oh and a small plate of Iberico ham – the bill was staggering! It was very nice though.
A gentle stroll down to the river, passing one of the storage locations for a Paso.
We passed the Torre del Oro.
Returning to the hotel, we checked out and waited in the hotel courtyard for the arrival of Husband who was joining us for one last lunch before the Tea Girls made their way to the airport and we returned to our motorhome adventure. A lovely end to a truly remarkable stay in Seville.
PS – After all the wind and rain we’ve had en route, the weather in Seville has been glorious.
PPS – I would definitely go to Seville again at some point …….. but perhaps NOT at Easter!
To see a map showing the location of the sites we stayed at and a few words describing each one, click Menu / Maps at the top of the page or click here – https://tiddleyompompomontour.com/tiddleyompompom-motorhome-stops/
Total mileage so far – 1817 miles
TiddleyOmPomPom on Tour 